Gurez Valley: The Last Frontier of Kashmir
Forget Pahalgam. Forget Gulmarg. If you want to see Kashmir the way it looked fifty years ago: wooden houses with carved balconies, a turquoise river rushing between snow peaks, meadows bursting with wildflowers and absolutely no selfie crowds, then pack your bags for Gurez Valley.
Tucked in the extreme north of Kashmir, just 8–10 km from the Line of Control, Gurez is the last truly untouched corner of the valley, and quite possibly the most beautiful.
Why Gurez Feels Like Time Travel
Home to the Dard-Shina tribe (one of the last communities claiming descent from Alexander’s soldiers), Gurez is a living museum. Their language, their songs, their two-storey log-wood houses with intricate lattice balconies; everything feels preserved in amber. The valley is split by the roaring Kishanganga River (called Neelum across the border), and on clear days you can wave to villages on the other side.
The undisputed queen of the skyline is Habba Khatoon Peak, a perfect pyramid named after Kashmir’s tragic 16th-century poetess who was born in nearby Tulail. At sunset, the entire valley glows as the mountain catches fire.
How to Reach Gurez
Distance from Srinagar: 125 km (6–8 hours)
Route: Srinagar → Bandipora → Razdan Pass (3,556 m) → Dawar (main town)
The road is now fully black-topped from Bandipora to Tulail, making even hatchbacks comfortable. The once-dreaded Razdan Pass stretch is smooth and quick.
Transport Options:
- Shared Sumo (most popular): ₹350–450 per seat from Bandipora (departs 7–9 AM)
- Private taxi Srinagar–Dawar return same day: ₹7000–9000
- 2-day private trip (highly recommended): ₹12,000–16,000
- Luxury JKRTC bus now runs daily from Srinagar TRC to Dawar (₹400)
Permit – Still Required?
Yes, but it’s free and instant. Apply online at bandipore.nic.in/permit the night before and receive the PDF on WhatsApp within minutes. Physical permits are also issued same-day at Bandipora or Tulail checkpost.
Best Seasons in Gurez
| Season | Months | Experience |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | May–June | Snow still on peaks, potato fields in bloom, fresh green everywhere |
| Peak Summer | July–August | Lush meadows, wildflowers, pleasant 15–25°C days |
| Autumn | September–October | Golden poplars, crimson maples, crystal-clear river |
| Winter | November–April | Road closed, 10–15 ft snow – only for extreme adventurers |
Unmissable Spots
1. Habba Khatoon Sunset (Dawar)
Every evening the entire town gathers on the riverbank to watch the peak turn pink, then orange, then blood-red. Bring kahwa and join them.
2. Tulail Valley
40 km beyond Dawar – villages like Purana Tulail and Barnai feel like Tolkien’s Shire with 6,000 m snow peaks behind.
3. Khandiyal Meadow
A hidden bowl 20 km from Dawar, reached by a gentle 30-minute walk. Often completely tourist-free.
4. Kishanganga Riverside Trail
8-km flat walk from Achura to Dawar with log houses on one side and the border on the other.
5. Sheikhpora Waterfall
A 100-foot cascade that becomes a frozen ice wall in winter.
6. Tulip Garden (Dawar)
Thousands of tulips bloom mid-May against the backdrop of Habba Khatoon.
Where to Stay
- JKTDC Wooden Huts (Dawar) – riverside, ₹3500–6000
- Habba Khatoon Tourist Complex – deluxe rooms with peak view
- Log-wood homestays – ₹1500–4000 per person including meals (the authentic experience)
- Riverside camping – ₹2000–5000 with tents & food
- New luxury eco-resort in Tulail – glass walls, mountain views
Food You Cannot Miss
- Fresh river trout grilled with mountain herbs
- Walnut-apple chutney with handmade bread
- Gurez-style kahwa brewed with wild mint
- Buckwheat hand-rolled noodles
The Perfect 2-Day Itinerary
| Day 1 | |
| 06:00 AM | Leave Srinagar |
| 12:00 PM | Reach Dawar, check into homestay |
| 03:00 PM | Riverside walk + Habba Khatoon viewpoint |
| 06:00 PM | Sunset with locals |
| 08:00 PM | Bonfire & Dard folk songs |
| Day 2 | |
| 07:00 AM | Drive to Tulail |
| 09:00 AM | Explore Barnai & Purana Tulail |
| 11:00 AM | Hike to Khandiyal meadow |
| 02:00 PM | Late lunch in Dawar |
| 04:00 PM | Start return journey |
| 10:00 PM | Back in Srinagar |
Why Gurez Remains Kashmir’s Best-Kept Secret
One high pass, an 8-hour journey, limited accommodation, and almost no network beyond Dawar keep the crowds away. A planned tunnel under Razdan Pass will one day cut the drive to 3 hours, but until then Gurez belongs to those willing to earn its beauty.
Come while the wooden houses still outnumber concrete ones. Come while the loudest sound at night is the Kishanganga rushing past your window. Come while it is still possible to have an entire Himalayan valley almost to yourself.
Juley from the land of Habba Khatoon!
