Kupwara: Kashmir’s Wild North – Where the Himalayas Still Feel Untamed
If you’ve already done Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonmarg and are craving something rawer, quieter and infinitely more dramatic, turn your compass north. Kupwara – the northernmost district of Kashmir – is where the valley suddenly ends and the real Himalayas begin. Towering 5,000 m peaks, endless pine forests, high-alpine meadows larger than Switzerland, and villages so close to the Line of Control that you can hear the evening azaan from across the border – this is Kashmir without filters, without pony touts, without Instagram crowds.
Here, the air smells of pine and woodsmoke, the rivers run ice-cold even in August, and the only traffic jam you’ll face is a herd of sheep crossing the road.
Why Kupwara Feels Like the Kashmir of Old Postcards
Because it is. Until recently, large parts were restricted or simply unknown to outsiders. Even today, most tourists only zip through on their way to Lolab or Bangus, missing the fact that Kupwara district contains some of the largest and most spectacular mountain meadows in the entire Kashmir valley.
How to Reach Kupwara
Distance from Srinagar: 90–100 km (3–3.5 hours)
Route: Srinagar → Baramulla → Handwara → Kupwara town
The road is excellent – fully black-topped NH-701 – and lined with rice fields and apple orchards. Shared Sumos leave every 30 minutes from Batmaloo bus stand (₹150–200 per seat). Private taxi: ₹3000–4000 one way.
The Crown Jewels of Kupwara District
1. Lolab Valley – “Wadi-e-Lolab”
Often called Kashmir’s fruit bowl, Lolab is a 40-km-long gorge filled with apple, walnut and cherry orchards.
- Satlavan Meadow – emerald grass, pine forests, zero tourists
- Kalarooch Caves – mysterious natural potholes said to connect to Russia (local legend!)
- Nachyan Waterfall – 100-foot cascade hidden inside the forest
2. Bangus Valley – Kashmir’s Largest Meadow
Bigger than Gulmarg, Yusmarg and Doodhpathri combined. Split into Bada Bangus (large) and Chhota Bangus (small).
- Endless green carpets stretching to the horizon
- Wild horses running free
- Nomadic Gujjar and Bakarwal camps with hundreds of sheep
- Perfect for multi-day camping and horse trekking
3. Machil Valley – The Dramatic Frontier
One of the most stunning valleys in Kashmir, guarded by 5,000 m peaks and glaciers.
- Requires free Inner Line Permit (issued same day at DC office Kupwara)
- Home to the famous “Machil Cup” horse polo tournament every August
4. Sadhna Pass (3,130 m)
The gateway to Karnah and the LoC villages of Keran & Teetwal. Stunning views of Kishanganga river splitting India and Pakistan-administered areas.
5. Keran & Teetwal
You can stand on the bridge and literally see across the border. Peaceful, poignant and breathtakingly beautiful.
Best Seasons in Kupwara
| Season | Months | Experience |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | April–May | Apple blossoms, snow on peaks, fresh green meadows |
| Summer | June–August | Lush Bangus, perfect camping weather |
| Autumn | September–October | Golden rice fields, crimson forests |
| Winter | November–March | Heavy snow, frozen waterfalls, road to Bangus closed |
Where to Stay
- Kupwara Town – JKTDC Tourist Bungalow & several decent hotels (₹2000–5000)
- Lolab Valley – homestays in villages like Sogam, Diver (₹1500–3000 with meals)
- Bangus Valley – luxury eco-huts by JKTDC + private camping operators
- Machil – army-run “Snow Leopard” huts & basic homestays
Food You Must Try
- Fresh river trout (Machil & Keran)
- Hand-pounded walnut-apple chutney
- Gujjar-style maize roti with wild mountain ghee
- Local honey collected from high meadows
The Perfect 2–3 Day Kupwara Itinerary
| Day 1 – Lolab Valley | |
| Morning | Srinagar → Kupwara → Lolab (Sogam/Diver) |
| Afternoon | Visit Satlavan meadow & Kalarooch caves |
| Evening | Homestay dinner with local family |
| Day 2 – Bangus Valley | |
| Full day | Drive to Bangus (45 km from Kupwara), horse ride, picnic, photography |
| Night | Overnight camping under the stars |
| Day 3 – Machil or Keran (optional) | |
| Morning | Get permit → Machil or Sadhna Pass → Keran |
| Afternoon | Return to Srinagar |
Why Kupwara is Still Off the Beaten Path
Because it takes effort. Because there are no luxury resorts yet. Because mobile network disappears in the meadows. Because the best places require permits and a sense of adventure.
And that’s exactly why you should go – now – before the inevitable happens. Before five-star hotels arrive in Bangus. Before Keran becomes the next “trending” destination. Before the silence is broken.
Come while the meadows are still ruled by shepherds and wild horses. Come while the only sound at night is the wind in the pines and the distant call of a snow leopard.
Come to Kupwara. Kashmir’s wild north is waiting.
Juley from the land beyond the mountains!
